Robyn's Wanderings

Kiting Kiting Everywhere

Between September and May, he’s found most often above Shelly Bay or Elbow Beach. A kiting addict, Denis, has been hooked to the board for the last four years and for the last two years has also been convincing everyone else they should too.

When the time comes for a vacation, though, Denis Pitcher doesn’t limit his kite surfing to our island shores.

His latest escapade? Heading to Cabarete in the Dominican Republic. Otherwise known as the kitesurfing capital and the spot for the World Championship of this sport next month.

According to Denis, Bermuda….especially our rum is very well-known in this part of the world. Here are Denis’ travels:

Cabarete
There’s something about being in a different place, surrounded by an unfamiliar culture and an experience far different from the norm that makes travel so rewarding. Cabarete, a small town on the north-east coast of the Dominican Republic is one of those places. Ranked as one of the top kiteboarding destinations in the world, Cabarete has developed quite a reputation for itself among those who kiteboard or wish to learn. Even if you’re not into the sport or find yourself in one of those rare occasions with no wind there are a wealth of alternative activities to keep you entertained.

As a Bermudian, Cabarete can be a uniquely rewarding experience. Your experience begins as you step off your plane to be greeted with $10 visa tax and a complimentary shot of local rum. It can be quite surprising and gratifying to know that even should you not be able to manage a lick of Spanish the local customs agents offer no problems as they not only recognize Bermuda but also speak highly of it; at least in the couple words of English they can muster. There’s nothing like having our tiny little rock recognized when most places around the world have never heard of us or confuse us for Caribbean isles. Apparently we’ve made quite an impression on the Dominican people as has our own local spirit. Of note, the customs officials might jokingly hint that next time would be the perfect opportunity to bring along a bottle of black seal as a gift.

Cabarete has some of the world’s best kiteboarding conditions with the ability to ride the flat water of a river mouth meeting the ocean at La Boca. Alternatively there’s Kite Beach, the local hotspot or Bozo Beach, Cabarete’s equivalent of our own Elbow Beach and the beach closest to Cabarete nightlife. For those not interested in Kiteboarding or needing to fill a windless day there are tons of activities to keep you busy. You can try your hand at learning to surf in Encuentro, going on waterfall tours in the mountains, mountain biking, horseback riding, dirt bike tours, sailing, diving, snorkeling, boat tours, you name it, there’s little shortage of activities to do.

Getting there: can be pretty easy and fairly convenient since it is possible to travel same day there as well as return as long as you fly in to Puerto Plata and return through Santiago. This means you can use more of your precious vacation time on your vacation and less on getting there. The only downsides are that you have to travel through what may be the worlds worst airport, Miami, on what may be the worlds worst airline, American Airlines, and they might not only lose your bags for a few days but also wreak your kiting gear as well as charge you extra for the privilege. Alternatively Jet Blue is also an option, though the hours are more cumbersome and may include a stopover in New York on the way there or back.

Getting around: Cabarete is easy enough with reliance on the ten toe express. Alternatively though you can hop on the back of a ‘mototaxi’ (also known as random people who honk at you from their motorcycle) who can give you a tow wherever you’d like to go for less than a dollar. It’s cheap and convenient though helmetless and on roads that aren’t necessarily in the best condition so you may be in for a horror or a thrill depending on your disposition to bikes. Most places around the town are certainly walk able and aside from poorly lit areas in the middle of the night seemed perfectly safe.

Perhaps surprising to those of us who’ve only heard of Cabarete for kiteboarding Dominican is also apparently well-known for ‘female companionship’. With quite a different take on it than the flyers and propositioning of Las Vegas or the window shopping of Amsterdam, Cabarete’s approach is a specific nightclub. If you don’t happen upon it you wouldn’t even know the practice existed but if you find yourself in a club called Bamboo packed full of attractive young Dominican women and no dudes don’t be surprised if you’re groped, prodded and generally molested as they try to find a means to relieve you of your money. That is at least if you don’t look like a Dominican, which could yet be another reason you’re thankful for your Bermudian heritage as you have the opportunity to laugh at the expense of friends who don’t share your complexion. Be warned though, the club also happens to be one of the big dance spots so it may be unavoidable if you meet fellow tourists who insist on going dancing. If alternatively partaking is the purpose of your trip, you now know where to go.

Nightlife was quite good with a decent variety of bars along the main strip. If you’d prefer to not pay for your company you’d best be willing to beat the local sharks to it. As a hotspot for European tourists and exchange students the place can be decent for meeting people, though the overall ratios can be rather poor with guys outnumbering girls. Definite highlights of a night out are to watch out for the ‘happy hour specials’ which happen at different hours at different bars throughout the night. Personal favorites included a 10pm special of a strong, hand mixed $7 pitcher of mojito, which for the amount of work involved seemed like steal far beyond the awesome taste. Alternatively there was the midnight $7 pitcher of redbull and vodka at LAX which leaves you a bit bewildered as they pour you a pitcher full of vodka and then hand you two cans of redbull to go with it.

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If you’re looking for an  affordable and fun place to stay, Swell Surf Camp comes highly recommended. Opened in November of 2009, Swell has quickly established itself as a top pick for those learning to surf, kiteboard or simply relax in Cabarete. The staff are incredibly helpful and friendly and the place itself has developed a community, almost family feel to it. Newcomers are made to feel incredibly welcome and instantly become a part of the group, who will often hang out together whether it’s learning to surf, exploring the town or experiencing the nightlife. The camp is incredibly safe and secure with no concerns about needing to lock your room or even worry about personal belongings you’ve left laying about. Although nearly equipped like a fortress with electrified fencing fitted at the top of high walls and a large metal gate as the single main entrance, the added security is quickly forgotten about as the place quickly takes on the feel of a home away from home.
Eating is not to be an experience missed in Cabarete. One such experience is that of an authentic West Indian restaurant in the mountains. Seated on cushions on the floor of an outdoor gazebo, you place your food on palm leaves used as plates and use your right hand as your utensil. “Blue Moon” as it was called offered a truly unique and unforgettable experience, especially when for 5 people it only managed to cost $20 each for the meal and transport there. For those hunting for taste over experience will not be left disappointed with the mouth watering and unforgettable steak that can be had at the little restaurant next to the local Bozo (aka the main Liquor Store). It serves an exquisite skirt steak prepared Argentinean Churrasco style, which means it’s slow cooked over hot coals to produce a tender, juicy and flavourful steak. To help wash it down you can pop next door to grab a bottle of wine or order a few Presidente’s, Dominican’s tasty answer to our favored green bottle.

In all, whether you’re looking focused on a destination with lots of wind or couldn’t care less for kiteboarding, Cabarete is a spot that has a little for everyone. It’s diverse culture, nightlife and wide range of activities provide an incredible getaway for a place relatively easy to get to at a reasonable price. The local food isn’t to be missed and there isn’t a dull moment if you’re looking for a great getaway from our little rock that offers a little more excitement than cookie cutter all-inclusives. In all Cabarete comes highly recommended and will definitely be a place you’ll resolve to go more than once in your lifetime, just don’t forget to take the gift of a little Bermudian spirit.