Robyn's Wanderings

“The Buddha whimsically pointed out that seeking happiness in one’s material desires is as absurd as “suffering because a banana tree will not bear mangoes.” – Rolf Potts in Vagabonding, An Uncommon Guide to the Art of Long-Term World Travel. 

Chilling in Thailand......in an economical way

You enjoying that coffee? Do you know what that $2 you used to buy it means?

To me, at least?

Probably not.

Well, let me explain. That $2 coffee means a night in Thailand! Yes, Thailand and I did not mistype.

Am I crazy? Maybe, actually. But that’s not the point of this column and I’m not crazy for thinking a cup of coffee equals a stay in Thailand.

That cup of coffee I gave-up before my 2009 trip around the world bought me a view of the river Kwai ( you know, the one with the famous bridge over it?) while sitting in a hammock and trapped in a green garden. Yep, all of that and my own room for just $2!

Now calculate your coffees for a week and that’s about $10 or a night in Santiago, Chile (or 5 in Thailand) and the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in.

But this column is more than comparing expenditure on coffee and the equivalent bedding you could find in a foreign country.

And in this column, I am not going to argue I am a some kind of personal finance guru. I can’t tell you about stocks, bonds, mutual funds and other boring financial instruments.

What I do know is we are in an economic crisis and people are struggling to stay afloat I always hear:

“How do you have any money left?”

“Ummm…uhh…”

I hate money questions, especially when they are about mine, but I can understand where this question comes from.

Visiting the bridge over the river Kwai!

Why? Well, I had just spent one year traveling around the world where the only income I had was from my somewhat weekly column to this paper.

Even with the year of travel expenditure, however, I had returned home with money in the bank.

Actually enough money to try my hand at my own business and even go out for dinner, which is where I sustained this very question.

Why am I writing about this now? Almost two years since I have returned from that mammoth trip?

Well it has everything to do with what travel can teach you about your economy and I don’t mean the mess of Bermuda’s (though maybe there could be a few lessons in here too!) And the real lesson I have to teach you is most succinctly phrased by the author of this week’s quote, Rolf Potts. His tip: Keep it Simple.

Before I traveled the world for a year, I kept it simple.

New clothes? Nope (or rarely). These were only bought for weddings or if the jeans were finally wearing out.

A house? No, there too. I shared an apartment with three girls and then rented an apartment on my own (which was a splurge,but I didn’t have a choice!). I still do not have a house, but that will be the next reason I keep it simple.

I brought lunch to work, gave-up purchasing coffee and rarely went out for dinner.

My biggest splurge was sun glasses and if I live on an Island then I need to protect my eyes!

These economic woes that the US felt first and now Bermuda is experiencing are down to one thing: excess. For some reason there is constantly an urge to have more than you need in material things and compete with those around you.

My attitude: who cares?! Why compete for the large mansion? Why not live within your means or invest in personal growth (schooling?)? Why invest in a big car rather than your own personal improvement?

And travel (i.e. not immersing yourself in a resort in any country, but actually visiting different countries) is all about personal investment. Want a story for the next dinner party that does not hinder around purchasing shoes or a new car? Take that shoe money and run to South America!

Which brings me to the second lesson I learned about keeping it simple: do it for travel too.  I never understand tourists who fly around the world to host themselves in a Hilton, Marriott or some other chain hotel.

Why? Because that is exactly what they are: chain, no identity hotels. They are not owned by the people who actually live in the country and they will never possess the ability to immerse you in the culture of Thailand, Chile or Mexico.

niagara falls!

Me? I prefer to stay in local joints. In Laos I stayed in a family-run affair and in Niagara-on-the-Lake I stayed in a Bed and Breakfast run by a local. At the B&B, the local, Joe, not only gave me tips on how to visit the area, but was also able to offer us local (not concierge) tips on where to eat.

I have never spent more than $200 on a hotel room and I can’t imagine why I ever would. The point of travel is personal growth. How will a resort that mimics your home country do that?

So….to wrap this up, perhaps we all need to take a tip from travel and learn to keep it simple and focus on personal investment, not superficial material investment.

Until next week…I hope you start to focus on improving you (and stop buying the $2 coffee for crying out loud, if you need to save money!!!)

“All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own. And if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy it.” – Samuel Johnson

The Bellavista neighbourhood in Santiago, Chile!

I don’t normally do this.

Honestly, I have tried to stay away.

But when I saw Lonely Planet’s list of 2012‘s top ten cities they published this week, well….I couldn’t resist.

So for this week’s Rock Fever, we are going to break my self-imposed ban on Lonely Planet and examine their choices.

Why, you ask, have I banned guidebooks from this world-renowned publisher? Well, because I was scarred one too many time by prices wildly mis-reported and a focus on guzzling alcohol rather than actually traveling.

So instead of Lonely Planet, when I travel I find my hand lingering over the pages of Rough Guides for Europe and Footprints for South America. By the time I finished my round-the-world trip, I ditched travel guides completely for the wise words of fellow travelers and locals!

Ok, I will now step off my soap box and explain why I have suddenly returned to the Lonely Planet suggestions: because they’re not half bad!

Reason two? More than any travel guide, what you will need to plan interesting travel is variation and a list/friend/guide who can give you those new suggestions.

So here is your ten travel suggestions for next year (with my own comments, thanks to my very own travels in most of the cities).

London for the Olympics this year!

Lonely Planet’s top city? London, England of course. Seemed like a no-brainer, really. What with the capital city hosting the Olympic Games next year. I hear what Lonely Planet is saying: it will be multi-cultural, the red carpet will be rolled-out and the East-End will be featured, but….I worry. I’m not a crowd person and London is not the kind of city where public transportation is reliable on any given weekend let alone during the Olympics. My suggestion? If you have not been, make London a stop in 2012, but don’t bother for the Olympics. London will always provide culture and diversity, so you will also never be let down!

Number two: Muscat, Oman. Huh? My thoughts exactly. The capital of Oman, Muscat has a population of a little more than a million people, it also lies on the Arabian Sea and along the Gulf of Oman with the Western Al Hajar mountains dominating the landscape. Now we have geography, but why visit? According to Lonely Planet, Muscat is revamping with trendy, designer outlets, Old Town souks and “wacky water sports” enlivening the coastline. Apparently the Muscatis are also genuinely interested in visitors! When are you booking your flights?

Next, we head to Asia and Bengaluru (Bangalore) in India, which Lonely Planet calls the Elvis of South Asian megacities. The site of much of India’s information technology development and the capital of the Indian state of Karnataka, Bangalore is also known as the garden city. Accordingly, a lively music and art scene, as well as, a state of the art metro have grown to entertain and save the population from growing traffic, respectively. So why not add a little spice to your itinerary in 2012?

Of course if Europe is closer for you, number four is Cadiz, Spain. A lovely little city in the south of Spain, complete with cobblestoned streets leading to cafe-lined squares, Cadiz is also a destination for surfers! But all of these delights, which I experienced while awaiting to board a tall ship in 2001, are not why Lonely Planet picked it. Nope, instead in February Cadiz transforms to host a 10-day “bender” of drinking, singing and dancing otherwise called carnival. The locals? Well they will be donning lipstick and neon wigs to perform satirical skits! Even better? Unlike Seville or Cordoba (Cadiz’s neighbours), Cadiz is more budget friendly while also offering a “true” Andalucian living!

Take a boat ride in Stockholm, Sweden!

Number five is one of my favourites too: Stockholm. What a stunning city that should attract every Bermudian! An archipelago, Stockholm offers islands to lose yourself and sailing for days! But when you are not water logged, you will have to dodge the perfectly coiffed, beautiful Swedes (it’s not a joke or rumour, they really are all beautiful!) to visit the designer shops, bohemian bars and the extensive parks that dominate this beautiful city. My only addition would be to visit outside of Stockholm! While I was there I went to see Sigtuna, which is the oldest town in Sweden. Read about it on my website: www.robynswanderings.com!

Six takes us to Guimaraes, Portugal. A northern city in Portugal, Guimaraes has a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list, yet receives very few visitors. Odd. According to Lonely Planet (LP) we should go because the city is a filled with red-roofed, colonnaded buildings, punctuated by mansions and palaces that centre onto a spiky, crenellated castle. For 2012, this city was also anointed the European Capital of Culture!

Overlooking Santiago, Chile

I’m sorry to see my city was only listed at number seven: Santiago, Chile. Yes, my city. I loved Santiago when I visited in 2009. It is one of the most under-appreciated cities in South America and is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. But you should give this city a chance! It is surrounded by the Andes, giving you a glimpse of these white peaks anywhere in the city. Fancy some wine? Well the vineyards of Concha y Toro are only a hop-skip away from the city and if skiing is also your thing, you will also be in luck! Many tours offer one or two day trips from the city for some of the best skiing. Fancy staying in the city and you will love the bohemian Bellavista neighbourhood which features outdoor bars, gallons of tiny restaurants and a mountain to climb afterwards with stunning views of the city and the Andes. Honestly, I don’t know why you wouldn’t spend a week here!

Next on LP’s list is Hong Kong! Technically part of China, Hong Kong is constantly struggling for further democratization and this year should see rallies infused with theatrics, songs, dance and poetry! With 11,000 restaurants, I cannot believe I haven’t been to Hong Kong! Offering everything from shopping to gallery and bars in Soho, there are also walled villages and hiking easily accessible! Read about some of a fellow wanderer’s travels in Hong Kong, Emily Ross, on www.robynswanderings.com.

LP’s next pick is in the US: Orlando. This choice struck me as odd, but ok, let’s hear it LP. Their first explanation is on February 25 and 26, the city will be hosting the 61st NBA all-star weekend, which “brings much of the basketball and music worlds together.” Of course there are the theme parks (which, honestly I thought of), but apparently Orlando is also getting hip. The boho ‘Milk District’ is a neighbourhood on the rise and is filled with a “motley crew” of eateries, soaked in microbrews and tattoo parlours (perhaps in that order!)

Finally LP visits “down under” for their last pick: Darwin, Australia. According to them this frontier town has a great nightlife filled with markets and restaurants, with a world-class wilderness area nearby. The waterfront precinct even has wave pools, bars and eateries and on the East Coast there are galleries filled with Indigenous art.

Ok, well I think I have found my next stops! Have you? Which city(ies) would you add to the list?

Until next week, stay warm, dry and visit www.robynswanderings.com.

“I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world within.” – Lillian Smith

Bermuda's Halloween with a pumpkin!

There were going to be no carved pumpkins, no candy corns and definitely no costumes. Why?

Because I was in Chile for October 31 and while I might be used to Halloween traditions like trick or treating, South America had a different way of greeting me during my trip around the world: Days of the Dead.

Perhaps holidays are not something you consider when traveling, but it’s amazing how sentimental I could get while on the road. Never one for Halloween (yeah, ok as a kid when candy was the game!), when I arrived in Chile I started pondering how I would spend it.

Well, the first thing to learn is that not everyone celebrates Halloween as Bermudians, American and Canadians traditionally know it. Originating from the ancient Celtic festival of the dead, Samhain, the tradition was/is celebrated as the time when strict boundaries between the worlds of the living and dead became thin. Ghosts of the dead could, therefore return to earth.

When the Romans conquered much of the Celts land in France and England, the Roman day of the dead at the end of October became incorporated. With the spread of Christianity, there was an attempt to subsume this into All Saints Day on November 1 and the festival the night before was Alls-Hallows. Anyone see where this is going?

Well, for the country where these traditions all started, Ireland, parties, bonfires and fireworks spread through the country on October 31; while, Dublin hosts its annual Halloween Festival and parade.

The UK? Well Halloween has taken to the mainstream throughout the UK too. Yep children are asking for candy and adults get lost in outfits and parties. But what is definitely a highlight is the London Zombie Walk where hundreds moan and groan through the capital while visiting twelve pubs.

Head North to the Scandinavian countries of Norway and Sweden and you will find that Halloween is relatively new holiday and there will be a few parties and themed events around the countries.

Let them eat candy for Halloween or.....Julebukk

What they do, do in Norway that is similar to our Bermudian Halloween is run around the neighbourhood between Christmas and New Years to ask for sweets. It’s called Julebukk and it hails back to the Viking era. No dressing-up is really required….well beyond the layers of warm clothes required! I can attest to this having taken part when I visited family friends when I was 13-years-old.

Moving further East to Russia and the rise of Halloween is not welcomed by all. In 2008, in fact, lawmakers here sent a bill to their lower house to consider banning not just Halloween, but also Valentine’s Day. Why? They are worried about protecting their “conservative ways”. So in place of Valentine’s Day, Russians would be able to celebrate the Day of the Family, Love and Fidelity. No word on what Halloween would be called.

While Russia might be turning away from Halloween, other countries have never celebrated Halloween, but have ceremonies that draw from the idea that spirits of their ancestors abound. The Malagasy people of Madagascar have one of the most unique ways to honour their dead. Though Halloween (as we might know it) is little celebrated on this East Coast of African island, they do honour their dead by ‘turning the bones’. This ritual, ancient it is, requires the opening of the tombs of the dead dressing the bones in fresh clothes and passing them around to dance with friends and relatives.

Um….I think I’ll head to Cambodia now, which is my favourite South East Asia country. Here, the whole concept of Halloween does not really exist! Instead the country focuses on the lunar calendar and the tenth month which usually falls in September. During this time the Cambodian Buddhists celebrate the Pak Ben, 14 days during which they wake every morning before dawn to prepare offerings of food and other gifts to monks living in the local pagoda and to their ancestors.

On day 15, Cambodians visit the Pagoda with sweet sticky rice (the best food in the world) and bean treats wrapped in banana leaves and other special foods to mark the P’chum Ben or festival of the dead. P’chum Ben also marks the close of Pak ben.

Do you see how it all comes around? Sweet rice or candy corn? Ok it’s a stretch, but this is why I love traveling: different countries have draw on the same ideas, but it translates for cultural understanding.

Let’s stay in Asia and head to Japan! If we go now, however, we would have completely missed their equivalent to Halloween, the Obon Festival. That’s because Japan does not celebrate Halloween, but they do have this mid-August Festival to honour the deceased and often ends with candle lit paper lanterns floating down a river which symbolize the departure of their ancestors.

Heading further East (from Japan of course) to Mexico and you’re also celebrating the Day of the Dead on November 1 and 2nd. Well, that is now. When it was celebrated during the Aztec years, the festival would last two months! With the introduction of Catholicism, however, the celebrations were whittled down to two days! During these days, it is believed here that lost ones return to the earth to celebrate with their families and friends. Visits to grave sites ensue where offerings of food, photographs and drinks are offered to the dead.

Moving to the South of this world and we hit Peru, which celebrates more than 3000 festivals a year and also finds time to recognize their Day of the Dead on November 1 and All Saints Day on November 2. These are days for Peruvians to honour their dead with Mass, bringing flowers to the cemetery and sharing food with the dead. It’s a tradition that stems back pre-Hispanic years!

All dressed-up to tackle Patagonia for Halloween!

And finally what did I do in Chile? Well let’s just say I looked like one of the scary masks in the Phoenix as I tried to hike for five days through the Torres del Paines National Park without a shower. However, with the natural beauty of glaciers, bright blue lakes and avalanches, I did not miss Halloween one bit.

Which brings me to one last point: yes, our holidays are fun, but use these holidays with days-off from work (yes, even Cup Match) as a chance to see what other places do. You’d be surprised how little you miss home as you become inspired by a new culture. Ok, enough for this week, ciao ciao!

Santiago's Hills

Poor Santiago….and, well, Buenos Aires and  other South American cities near Chile. How was Chile supposed to know that they had a volcano that would ground flights?

Last Friday Chile’s Puyehue-Cordon-Caulle volcano range, about 800km (500 miles) south of Santiago, began erupting and has created a cloud as far as Buenos Aires that has caused problems in the city.

And it keeps causing problems. Thousands of Chileans had to be evacuated from their homes and rains threatened to bring landslides to the area. So sad.

Santiago is such an amazing city and Chile is such an amazing country. I suppose this is how Iceland felt? And Chile could be in for more. It’s one of the most volcanic countries on Earth with more than 3,000 volcanoes (80 of which are active) running the length of the thin South American land.

Want to see more photos from the eruption last week? Check it out here.

I know the eruption will mean flights have been delayed or canceled, but I hope for Chile’s sake and those who have not been there, that it doesn’t deter tourists for too long.

Santiago alone is enough to warrant multiple write-ups about this beautiful country. With it’s variety of neighbourhoods, great food, fun people and beautiful background of the Andes, Santiago is a town worth making a trek for.

Daughter and mom walking through the border between Bolivia and Peru

What does it mean to be a mom? Heck that’s not easy to answer when you live in one culture. What does it mean to be a mom around the world?

Lots of different things. Which is why we celebrate mother’s day (today in Bermuda, hence my post. I know, I know, you celebrate mother’s day on different dates in different places around the world!)

When did it start? Well it actually has it’s calls in feminism and the Women’s Movement in the United States when Julia Ward Howe wrote the “Mother’s Day Proclamation” in 1870.

No, she did not demand chocolates and gift certificates to a spa. No, Julia was reacting to the carnage of the Civil War (in the US) and believed that women could be involved in the political movements of their countries.

We can! Yippeee now some more than 100 years later women are….well women have a long way to go. Sure in Bermuda and the United States we might have “equal rights” under the law (and not entirely…but that’s another post at another time), but what we don’t have is equality in society.

It’s hard to argue with the subtle sexism that still exists when in societies such as Egypt’s there are mass problems of women being disregarded even with the recent upheavals and demands for democratic rights! That’s what Amnesty International is calling for (women being involved), but that’s another vein to this story…..

So off of my soap box and down to the founding of this day. Since Julia the day has been taken by various counties to match it with historical matters or the Church to be dedicated to….who else? Mother Mary.

Mother Mary Statue in Santiago, Chile

Like this statue that overlooks Santiago, Chile! Overlooking the city she is the one who will ensure the world is safe.

And who else could? We call her Mother Earth. We know women are the ones that reproduce! So who else would you think of, but your mother when you see a sight like this one:

Glacier

Mother Earth is an amazing place, which makes moms of all kinds and all places amazing people or….animals?

I couldn’t help but throw this photo (below) into the mix. Especially following the glacier pic! Who else could I have picked for strong moms, but Penguins

These classy chics leave the egg cracking and toddler rearing to their husbands, while they head to sea and fill their bellies! Good women.

Pruning Penguins

Of course they return to their babies! But after months in freezing temps they need a few minutes to themselves to warm up and get their composure before returning to their families.

Unfortunately, motherhood is not always recognized in the happiest of situations and one of the most disturbing was in fact the way it was portrayed in Cambodia.

A country that went through a horrendous genocide left behind photos that would break anyone’s heart, but the worst are the photos of the children before they were to be killed and the mothers who held them.

Where does her strength come from?

This will be their last photo together before the Khmer Rouge disposed of them. How does she sit there? How does she hold on?

I know mother’s day is supposed to be happy, but it is also poignant. It is also a reminder of mothers who have gone through so much for their children.

Gone through so much as women and for those who still struggle with motherhood. Unfortunately in too many places in the world, women will die from child birth.

Healthcare is still not universal and women are probably those who lack the most for it. I hope on this day we can celebrate the women who make it all come true and try and make a difference for those who still try.

Happy Mother’s Day

Traditional Mother in Bolivia

Traveling Solo in Berlin!

The room was barely bigger than the single bed it contained. I could touch each wall with my hands standing in the middle (I’m five feet, six inches tall). The walls were clean and white. A flatscreen TV and the faucets in the attached micro bathroom were the only things that made any noise. Well, besides me.

I was in a strange town (Bangkok, Thailand to be exact) and I was alone. I had been traveling with a boyfriend for the beginning of an around-the-world trip, but things changed.

I’m not going to write here that the decision to travel solo was easy. It wasn’t. I’m not going to begin to try and sell you on the notion that I wasn’t scared. I was.

But as we just celebrated, or tried desperately to ignore, Valentine’s Day on Monday it got me  to thinking for my Rock Fever Column in The Royal Gazette: Why do we fear being solo? Why is being together celebrated? Why do we only celebrate Valentine’s Day for couples (and friends if you are younger than 12)? Why can’t we celebrate independence? Shall we start a day? Anyone got a name? Heroes’s Day? Shoot that’s already taken.

What has this got to do with travel? Well as most people will be writing gushy mush about friends who’ve been friends since they were in the womb and couples who cannot bear to be without each other (and need mounds of chocolate and roses to prove it) I am writing the anti-thesis: Ten Reasons Everyone Should Travel Solo.

I believe that everyone should be traveling alone at some point in their lives (and I don’t mean on business). Everyone should take a trip somewhere unknown without friends, without a boyfriend (or girlfriend) without, even, a tour guide.

But Robyn, why would I travel on my own? I like my boyfriend? Me and my friend do everything together?

You want to know why? Well that leads me to one of the most important and the number one reason on my list: it builds a strength and reliance on yourself you will get from very little else in life. When you sleep through your flight from Dallas, Texas to Santiago, Chile at the gate (not that I ever did that!) it is only you who must convince the American Airlines’ staff you are not an idiot (they booked me on the flight the next day and even comped me a hotel room for my mistake).

Hey statue how you doing? Wanna travel with me?

But even better than learning self-reliance (I think) is learning number two is that you have a choice. If you’re in Chiang Mai, Thailand and meet two travel buddies who are going on a three-day motorbike ride through Northern Thailand, you can! There is no debate (well maybe internally) and there is no request for sacrifice from your partner.

Which means number three and you want to learn a new skill, such as scuba diving while on the Perhentian Islands in Malaysia, you can! Sure, maybe you could do that if you were with a friend from home or a boyfriend, but what if they already knew how to? Would they be happy to sit in a hut with no electricity between 7 a.m. and 7 p.m.? And if they were, would you feel guilty?

So four is it gives you a guilt-free travel experience. If you want to go to Laos before visiting Cambodia and the travel buddy you met last week doesn’t want to, well, you find a new travel buddy! Can you do that with a boyfriend? Sure, but it would be a lot harder. Believe me.

And travel buddies are easy to find, which brings me to number five: When you travel as a couple or even as a couple of friends, you’re intimidating! Couples (either romantic or otherwise) are islands and approaching them takes quite a bit of effort for other travelers. Equally when you’re a couple you’re less likely to reach-out to those around you.

When you’re traveling solo and need to find out how to take the bus from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, you’re going to have to speak to locals. That makes reason six for traveling solo: meeting the people of the country! You’re more likely to talk to them one-on-one if you’re on your own.

Take a bike ride through Northern Thailand? Do it on your own!

Leading to reason seven for traveling solo which is learning to say hello in Cambodian (Sua s’dei) or how are you in Spanish (Cómo estás? or ¿Cómo está?). If you speak only to other travelers or your partner you’re less likely (I think) to actually learn some of the language and even about the culture. Solo? You have to pick-up at least a few words to help yourself.

Sure some couples do, but if you’re single? Well you’re forced to.

You will also be forced to meet other travelers, which is, of course, number eight! A vegan, Israeli who is going to teach English in Cambodia might share veggie rolls with you in Kanchanaburi. A Swedish architect might go hiking with you into the hills of El Calafate, Argentina. Or maybe you’ll go wine-tasting with a college roommate (you haven’t spoken to in a year) in Buenos Aires. Your travel buddies will be a medley exposing you to new experiences while also providing entertainment.

You'll find friends to hike through Patagonia!

But these all lead to number nine and what traveling solo inevitably provides: the ultimate freedom! Sure you might spend all day trying to find an internet cafe in London, England, but at least you didn’t waste anyone else’s day. What if you find that you love Argentina and you want to stay longer to ensure you see “everything”? Well if you’re on your own guess what….. you can stay as long as your little heart desires (see, see the Valentine’s Day connection?).

Which brings me to what I promised to write about last week: Around the World Plane Tickets. I forgot about Valentine’s Day (what does that say?).

But visit here tomorrow….I need help with a name. What’s in a name? Well you’ll find out tomorrow.

Adios!

“Si. Si. Taxi? Santiago? La Chimba hostel?” I was trying all the Spanish I had.

Is taxi Spanish? Universal I think. Does hostel translate?

Apparently not. I stood there watching his mouth move. Not a clue.

My airport greeter eventually gave-up and I continued wandering. It had taken me three days and a hiccup (read: I fell asleep in front of my gate and missed my flight) to arrive in Chile. Now I couldn’t even get to the hostel!

Take me back to Chile. I know we’ve all survived Hurricane Igor in Bermuda, so why not take a moment and read about something else. Here’s your chance in my Rock Fever column today!

Oh and for anyone with the print version of The Royal Gazette…I am not a six foot Colombian man (see clarified photo below).

Back in Chile and through blurred eyes and panic I eventually spotted an orange and white stand that looked similar to the website taxi ad. Sweet relief when they understood what I was saying!

Last week I left you hanging. I know. You couldn’t sleep. You were desperate to know where I would return from my extended travels around the world. I totally understand.

So this week I will let you return to the land of zzz’s by telling you it would be hands-down: Chile. Yes I went to Bali (not a country, obviously, but an island in Indonesia) and I liked it, but Chile? It stole my heart.

Why? It has everything. Check out my photos for an idea!

Though, to be honest, when I landed in Santiago I didn’t plan to stay for long. Unfortunately this capital, which has suffered an earthquake this year and a country that trapped its miners (ok not intentionally) is overshadowed by it’s neighbour’s capital Buenos Aires. I had been told: “LEAVE SANTIAGO IMMEDIATELY.”

Good thing I didn’t listen. This capital, like the country, is a bit of everything. From old to new to the bohemian Bellavista Neighbourhood to the well-structured and suited business district of El Gulf, Santiago is eclectic. Parks offer runners (ahhh it was a relief to throw the shoes on) a chance to hit their stride and the Andes in the background distract you from the pain.

But to fill-up following this torture there is nothing better than the food in Santiago or Chile for that matter. Within the Bellavista barrio (i.e. neighbourhood. See my Spanish is already getting better) there are rows upon rows of restaurants and bars just waiting to dish up the best corn-based (hello Celiacs…this is speaking to you) meat-infused dishes while allowing you to wash it down with delicious wine.

And from Santiago vineyards are only a 45 minute drive away through gorgeous countryside. You’re really asking? Yes of course I went! Ha. Silly reader.

Concha y Toro had my name written all over it and its name written all over the wine glass that survived another two months hidden in my backpack. Yes I have it beside me…I mean in a cupboard to prove it. Anyway, this vineyard is one of the largest and best in South America and it’s in Santiago’s backyard!

Of course another hour away and had I been there in the right season I could have strapped-on the skis and headed for the hil…mountains! I know, I know. Nobody thinks about skiing in Chile. Well someone must but a lot don’t because there are some incredible ski resorts only hours from Santiago and you get to go through the Andes. I’m sorry what are you doing going back to Vermont?

But Chile is not just Santiago….though I definitely suggest spending time there. Chile is a long, thing, incredibly diverse landscaped country. It’s as if the world’s interior designer decided to take all the leftovers and shove them along the West Coast of South America. This country boasts the highest desert in the world, a lake district so blue and green it appears painted, glaciers in the south and one of the most southern and stunning national parks, Torres del Paine, in the world (it appears in plenty of ads. You know, Patagonia? The store). Oh and of course, Chile offers access to Easter Island. Not a bunny in sight, but plenty of egg-looking heads.

Not me! Clearly...this is my trekking buddy struggling with his hi-tec gear around Patagonia

I could not afford the flight to Easter Island or to visit both sides of Santiago so (as you all know because you followed me so meticulously, ha) of course I went to Patagonia. I slept next to a glacier. I wandered through true wilderness. I learned how to camp and I went five days without coffee. And I loved it.

The entire visit in Chile was done in the early spring (i.e. few tourists). When I flew to Patagonia I was the only one staying in my hostel. That didn’t seem like the best way to find a hiking buddy for Torres del Paine. I was sad. I was fed-up. No fear. My Chilean hostel owner was there! She coaxed me out of my mood and introduced me to a Colombian boy (staying in a hostel opposite ours) who was also solo. I found my hiking buddy.

She could have ignored me. She could have made me pay my bill and be done. But she didn’t. Because she’s nice…first and foremost, but she’s also Chilean. The people are what topped the food, the landscape and, yes, even the wine to win the place for return for me. Yes, I am sorry Fussell (see quote) I would go back somewhere. I would go back to Chile without a moments thought.

But that’s not where I’m going next. Nope. It’s not quite time to return to South America. My plan? To hunker down in London (cause I’ve got a free place to stay) and find ten cheap trips from this capital city. Of course that’s barring Igor ruining my plans.

And it didn’t! All it did was change my Monday column to Tuesday, our travel tip from The Harbourmaster to Wednesday and my trip to start one day later! I’m leaving on a plane tonight! See from the other side of the Atlantic.

Ho Chi Minh's portrait in the Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) Post Office

“This is not working. It’s still hot in here.”

“Air-conditioning in Vietnam is not like in your country. We are all cool in here, it’s you. We will fix it tomorrow.”

Ten minutes before our exchange and exasperated with me, the receptionist, her friend and a teenage-apparently fix-it-all boy, had followed me upstairs. I had just arrived in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam and was melting. Between the humidity (and yes I still call myself a Bermudian) and the pollution in Ho Chi Minh City I was melting. So I splurged on a single room with air. I hoped it would also help with the wheat-induced sickness I also seemed to be suffering from (I’m allergic).

The three hotel workers each took turns feeling the vent and stood to the side starring at me. I wasn’t going to back down. Damn it I paid $12 for this!

They were not going to listen to me. My receptionist happily explained that: “Air-conditioning in Vietnam is not like in your country. We are all cool in here, it’s you. We will fix it tomorrow.”

I surrendered. With logic like that I settled into my single hostel room complete with a fridge, Cable TV, ensuite bathroom, a fan and broken air-conditioner.

You know what? The next day and eight hours of touring the Cu Chi Tunnels (secret hide-outs of the Viet Cong during the Vietnam war) I returned to an ice-cold room.

What’s your point Robyn? My point is, for $12 that’s pretty good service. Had I been feeling better they would have moved me to another room. Had the air-conditioning worked the first night, for $12 I did pretty well by Western standards for rooms and living conditions.

At the hostel there was: a front desk where I could book my tours, breakfast was included, there was security (i.e. locked front doors after a certain hour) and internet in the lobby….for free.

Last year as I traveled around the world I was hard-pressed to find a hostel without free Wifi. Oh wait I did in Patagonia. But even then the owner had a neighbour who I could go to for free Wifi.

As I traveled the world staying in budget accommodations I found Wifi at my fingertips. Ironically when I went to New York in January and stayed in a hotel that cost me about $100 a night I did not have Wifi. I did not have a fridge. Ok the air-conditioning worked and almost made me an icicle, but I didn’t have breakfast or the lovely receptionist arguing illogical, logic with me. That’s a great perk!

Internet access in Dahab, Egypt!

Perhaps that because Wifi and free Wifi seems to have infiltrated the budget accommodations and become a standard accessory. In the high-end hotels it still struggles. According to hotelchatter.com the worst hotel chain for Wifi? The W hotels. Do you know how much it costs to stay with them? For a weekend in August the cheapest room is $250 in New York. Oh wait you want Wifi? That will be $15 more. Which may not be necessary when you’re on vacation, but it is when you need to work and need to stay connected.

The New York Loft Hostel, on the other hand, starts at $35 a night, includes breakfast and Wifi; is located ten minutes from Union Square and has single rooms. For the same weekend at the Loft Hostel it will cost $250 and not $250 a night.

But, you ask, how do I know it’s a good hostel? Good question. Yes, we have become aware over the years of sites like Trip Advisor and Expedia.com which offer reviews of hotels. Creeping-up alongside these, however have also been sites working in the same capacity for hostels. Sites such as hostelbookers.com, hostelworld.com and hostels.com offer reviews by travelers who stayed in the properties. Making these reviews carry even more weight is the fact that these hostels do not advertise or at least very little. They rely on their reviews on this site and one bad one can really affect them.

And backpackers are ruthless. The difference between a $2 room and a $12 room better be good because that $10 could have meant another week of travel if it had not been wasted. If it was wasted the site will reflect the missing $10.

Not only do these sites provide reviews, they also provide:

1. photos of the hostel,

1. descriptions of the amenities
2. listing of the type of rooms the hostels offer: singles, doubles, dorms, private rooms for four – all with or without ensuite bathroom and
3. reservation services. Yep! Hostels are online and it is possible to use your credit card to reserve a room. Why are you still going to a hotel?

But hotel’s are more comfortable and quiet, you say. I would disagree with you. Like hotels, hostels vary. There are party hostels (and you know who you are) and there are quiet ones. Sometimes it will be a hit and sometimes it will be a miss. That is why the reviews and descriptions on the websites are so important.

Santiago, Chile

And comfort? In Santiago, Chile, for example, I found the most comfortable bed I have ever slept in. I wasn’t alone (well in bed I was). Others in the hostel also made the same observation.

And finally, hostels are everywhere and they cater to all ages and all sizes of the group. I have seen families with infants and I have seen retired-aged travelers all hanging in hostels. The hostels are friendly and social places where friendships are made and you can be as solo as you like or as sociable as you like.

But I would still suggest bringing flip flops if you choose the shared showers. You never do know! But should you be worried about your health? Absolutely, which is why next week’s Rock Fever column will be Dr. Cheryl Peek-Ball, senior medical officer for the Department of Health talks to us about immunizations.

Patagonia, Chile

I landed in Santiago, Chile after almost 38 hours on planes and sitting in airports such as Singapore, Tokyo and Dallas. Actually Dallas included an unintended stay-over when I slept through my departure AT the gate. Should that have told me something? Yes. I needed more sleep.

Luckily I got it in a Dallas airport hotel and the next day flew to my intended first-stop in South America – ever – Santiago. Chile. I don’t speak Spanish and I didn’t have a guidebook, but I did have the name of my hostel and a taxi service.

Golden. But where was I going to go? Chile’s long and thin and difficult to navigate by land. Especially when I landed there in their spring (late September).

Eeny, meeny….miny….moe: Patagonia. Best decision I ever made as I witnessed glaciers for the first time in my life and the most spectacular scenery at the end of the world. Well almost.

I couldn’t quite make it to Ushuaia, which names itself the most Southern city in the world, thanks to bus schedules. So I stayed in Punta Arenas and almost made it to the tip of the world. But don’t let that stop you!

Punta Arenas in Patagonia, Chile

Why not combine spa with adventure and a chance to visit tuxed-out non-flying birds? Why not spend New Years’ Eve in the luxury of a high-end cruise that will depart from Ushuaia (in Argentina) deliver you to some glaciers, cross the straight of Magellan and visit Magdela Island where 120,000 penguins await?

If that’s not your cup of tea, Chile by Sportstour, which you can book through CTravel, also offers New Years Eve in Chile’s desert and the highest in the world – the Atacama Desert. With moon-like landscapes that will mystify why not try it? Make the New Years resolution.

New Years Eve may seem miles away as we enter August, but if you’re looking for a deal in December you need to book with Windstar Cruises for their 2-for-1 deals. Take a 15-day cruise to:St. Barts, Tortola, Virgin Gorda, Curacao, Aruba
Transit Panama Canal, Isla de Coiba, Quepos, Tortuga Island.

If you book by August 14 (i.e. only nine days away) one person can sail for 15-days for :$3,575 pp. It was originally $7,149 per person. Can’t think of a nicer place to be spending Christmas!

Varanasi/Robyn Skinner

Or maybe you want something sooner? Something for September? Why not travel on the only Riverboat along the Ganges between Kolkata and Varanasi, India?

The next trip for the 56-person Bengal Pandaw river cruise is September 27th. There are only ten cruises a year! Each one is 11 days, but the entire trip includes stays in Kolkata for a night and Varanasi (the holiest city in India) for two.

For more information on the Bengal Pandaw Riverboat contact Carl Paiva, CEO of CTravel at 292-3033 and for the other deals check CTravel’s website or give them a call.

And as always: check the Travel Deals’ Page for more advice.

a zip lock bag. Wrap the sweater around it. Hide it in the winter jacket.

Stuff it at the bottom of the bag. Shoes are hiding underneath. The utility bag goes on top.

Wine Tasting in Chile

What am I talking about? Trying to fit my life in a backpack for a year. And yes the wine glass from Concha y Toro made it back to Bermuda.

In that vein today’s Rock Fever Column takes-on packing and…..a few more tips from those who know:

The New York Times recently covered the “Art of packing” by who else? A stewardess! What’s the number one tip?

Roll, Roll, Roll, your clothes! It saves space and your clothes.

Others? Layer, layer, layer. Winter clothes are the worst to pack! So much stuffing. So bring long underwear and layer the clothes and the winter jacket can be a minimum.

From the travel site Gadling? Create a travel drawer. Good idea especially when I am always searching for my chargers and vaccine booklet.

Stock it with travel-size shampoos and a first-aid kit.

Need a computer? Don’t forget the ethernet. Though to be fair most places now have WiFi so…don’t stress if you forget.

Need to bring jewelry with you? Well include a typical pill-box and each of these compartments can store your important pieces.

Do you have any good packing tips? How do you prepare for a trip?