Robyn's Wanderings

Living near the CN Tower in Toronto

What do you know about your fellow traveler? Well for most of us we have been following our weekly blogger Nicola Arnold so we know a bit. But you others?

Well here you go. Her very own, “About Me” page. Where has she been? You just have to read and find out:

Last weekend, I met up with some university friends for dinner in downtown Toronto. That’s the great thing about being based in Toronto, now, – having attended a university one hour west of here, a lot of former school friends and housemates live in the GTA (Greater Toronto Area).

We work, study or live in/near the city, so it’s great to catch up on news & relive the good old days! One of the girls was my roommate from our first year of school. According to her, when I moved in to our dorm room I asked her which countries she had been to, to which she awkwardly replied, “Well, I haven’t travelled much… but I’ve been to Florida!”

Starting university, my travel experience was a little bit different (although I had been to Florida too!). I was fresh off a European travel whirlwind from my Rotary Youth Exchange year in France, where I had spent 10 months exploring not only northeastern France but also Germany, Belgium, Luxembourg which were all bordering the region of France where I was: Lorraine.

Say hello to Köln (Cologne), Germany

The “where have you travelled” question popped up again recently in my Toronto wanderings. I found myself talking to a representative at the Adventure Travel Company in downtown, where I was looking into several products they offer.

At his desk, the guy had an “About Me” page relating to his travels. It was a neat way to learn more about him, where he had travelled and where he hoped to go next!

So, I decided to mirror the “About Me” with my own travel experiences for this week’s post!

I’ve seen a lot so far, luckily… but there is so much more to conquer in the world.

Here it goes:

Title: Adventurer/Wanderer

Location: Toronto

Country count: 27 Countries visited: USA, Canada, Bermuda, England, Wales, Scotland, Sweden, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Spain, Italy, Greece, Austria, Switzerland, The Netherlands, Vatican City, Monaco, Croatia, Czech Republic, Hungary, Netherlands, Zimbabwe, South Africa, India, Japan

Favourite country: hmmm… France. 

Next trip in my dreams? The Maldives. Realistically? New York City

The Maldives.The Maldives in my dreams... one day!

I don’t travel without… a Swiss Army knife, a spork, a water bottle and toilet paper (hey, you never know).

I travel because… Bermuda is a rock in the ocean, there is so much more to explore in the world!

My favourite travel moments are… the spontaneous adventures with travel buddies, especially when the unexpected happens and you have much to laugh about.

Beware of dodgy people along your journeys (like her?! Nicola...for anyone who has not followed her posts!)

As an aside: If you find yourselves in the Canadian cities of Calgary, Edmonton, Halifax, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver or Victoria… hunt down an Adventure Travel Company for more interesting travels, tours, and adventures!

The ATC offers many tours and excursions that are a great way to see the world. With slogans like “Epic Destinations. Epic Activities. Epic Hosts” and “It’s your life. It’s your adventure. What are you waiting for?” they seem to be experts in their field.]

In the words of Julius Caesar: Veni, Vidi, Vici!

Emily needs to stop looking at my food photos.

I hope you ate your breakfast this morning because our wanderer Emily Ross is opening her food photos from around the world!

Her move from pastry in Amsterdam to pad Thai in Thailand will entice the tummy and, hopefully, your tastes for traveling! Annnnd it’s on to Emily:

Aaaand Emily emerges from the darkness yet again.

Bermuda has an effect on me, causing me to procrastinate yet simultaneously make obsessive compulsive routines. God forbid I go a DAY without my Lindo’s hummus, but my suitcase remains unpacked and the blog remains neglected.

It’s time for me to get off the island. Getting out of Somerset (one end of the island) is feeling like sightseeing, let’s be honest. I’m off to Toronto this weekend to visit the younger sibling and MAN, am I psyched. I’ve been googling Chinatown restaurants with mounting anticipation.

Go to Amsterdam for the pastry Whove thunk it

I truly hope you all take some time to watch the brilliance that is ‘An Idiot Abroad.’ Ricky Gervais and Stephen Merchant send their idiot/idiot-savant radio colleague Karl Pilkington on a journey to the Seven Wonders of the World and document his reactions to travel.

Before he begins his journey, Pilkington expresses concern at the prospect of travelling to China because he worries he may develop a ‘taste for toad’ and then not be able to get any toad when he returns to the UK. Brilliance. And, I find upon my return to ‘the West’ – a fair point.

There are SO many foods I miss. I had a rather pitiful experience late night in London’s Chinatown – I bought dumplings from a random restaurant and well…they were ALL wrong.  Sigh. I miss the Asian respect for the eggplant. I miss chopsticks. My aunt gave me a family set of chopsticks for my birthday but they seem so misused when applied to roast chicken and peas. Woe.

My kingdom for xiao long bao

Toronto has a reputation for being one of the most multicultural cities in the world and the food scene really reflects the demographic diversity. The fact that there are restaurants sporting xiao long bao, my beloved soup dumplings, truly bodes well for my quest to find The Foods That I Miss.  We’ll see if I’m disappointed.

Perhaps I subconsciously find certain products or foodstuffs to fall in love with when I travel so that I have a greater incentive to return.

Peru – Ambrosoli mint toffees. Oh, the pain when I finally ran out of the stash I brought home.

South Africa/Botswana – All Gold Tomato ketchup. That stuff brings Heinz to shame. Oh, and impala and warthog weren’t half bad either.

France – Speculoos spread. As magical as the name implies.

These barrel pastries in Prague were amazing. Still need to find out the real name

Czech Republic – Activia Aloe Vera yoghurt. Thankfully I can find this in other European countries.

Germany – So. Much. Haribo.

Spain – There was this beautiful, beautiful pasta dish which was SO simple – just a runny fried egg, salt, pepper and pasta. You broke the egg yolk and mixed it in with the pasta to make a ‘sauce.’ Sure, I could make it at home but I could never recreate the pasta my host mother made for me.

I will never forget this pad thai.

If I continue my descriptions into China and Southeast Asia I think I’ll depress myself. Hopefully I’ll find the answer to my cravings in Toronto.

And I suppose if not…well, I have no choice but to return.

Right?

The centre of Haarlem in North Holland

What is the difference between the Netherlands and Holland?

Sorry, I know, you’ve had a three-day weekend and a test is not what you’re looking for, but seriously….do you know the difference?

Why am I asking, you ask? Cause we’re going to the Netherlands AND Holland in the Rock Fever Column this week.

Huh?

Exactly…ok, I will take pity. The Netherlands, which calls Belgium its southern neighbour and Germany its eastern, is actually comprised of a 12 provinces. North and South Holland are the names of two of these provinces.

So this week I flew to the Netherlands and then I visited North Holland (or Noord-Holland), which does consist of Amsterdam, but I’m not going to Amsterdam (yet).

Why not? Because Noord-Holland is so much more than Amsterdam and when I planned my trip, I did not realize I would have three, not two weeks, to fill.

What was I going to do with an extra week (tough life, I know) in the Netherlands? Well head to Haarlem of course. No, I didn’t buy a flight to New York. Instead, I flew to Amsterdam, jumped on a bus and took a half hour ride.

Once at Haarlem’s bus station, I then jumped on a second bus and found myself delivered to my youth hostel. Yes, I decided on a hostel because if there is one thing you will find tricky traveling through Europe in the summer is: prices! Everything is more expensive because, well, it’s the summer (I usually travel during the winter in Europe. Less expensive and plenty to do with Christmas markets).

Which probably brings you to your next question: why, Robyn, would you go to the Netherlands in the summer?

Beautiful sun while walking through the canals of Haarlem

Because I had a ticket and, though I had never thought about it before, it turns out that the Netherlands are absolutely stunning. Bonus and reason one? If you’re looking for a place with decent weather that fails to make you sweat the minute you leave the shower….you’ve found your spot.

Which brings me to reason two and Haarlem, because the Netherlands is more than Amsterdam! The capital of this country can feel overwhelming and intimidating. Haarlem, on the other hand, is a medium-sized town with about 150,000 people living in the shadows of some of the Netherlands most famous painters, who set-up a school here in the 17th Century. It is calm and close to the capital, making Haarlem a good choice for beginning a trip to this country.

Reason three for visiting this beautiful, canal-ridden town is its cobblestoned centre, filled with restaurants and meandering lanes that can deliver you to the famous Frans Hal Museum, which houses many of the Haarlem-inspired paintings.

Original printer in Haarlem's centre?

Perhaps reason four should be no matter how idyllic and quaint everything in Haarlem is, from the main square to the windmill on the canal, the town is also filled with some rather contradictory sites. These sites include the statue of Laurens Coster, in Haarlem’s centre, who claims to be the true inventor of printing to the Teyler’s Museum, which is the country’s oldest museum and it shows. Wooden cabinets are filled with fossils, crystals, medals and coins. It’s a beautiful building that houses these odd finds and, of course, who could give-up a chance to see the oldest museum of a country?

Maybe not the oldest, but the strangest kind of museum I have been to was the next visit: the Het Dolhuys. Housed in a converted hospital, this museum documents psychiatric care through the ages. Some seriously thought-provoking exhibits here!

Once you challenge your views on sanity and insanity, then reason five for visiting Haarlem and the history that is soaked into this town. The famous Corrie Ten Boom lived here with her family during World War II. The Ten Boom family were relied upon by the community as problem-solvers and generous caregivers. When the Nazis invaded, the family decided to hide members of the Jewish community in their home until one day when the Ten Booms were “ratted-out”. Corrie was the only one to survive the camps and spent the rest of her life advocating for forgiveness.

The Ten Boom Museum where the Ten Boom family hid Jewish members of the community during WWII.

After the heavy, history lesson, my next step was to enjoy some time in the wilderness. That’s the lovely thing about Haarlem. Everything is about half an hour away by public transport…even the national park Zuid-Kennemerland and reason six.

There are a number of paths through the park and I broke all of the rules and arrived at the starting-point without a bike!

Just a side-note here: no one and I mean no one walks! Everyone rides a bike in this country, which is reason seven for visiting! The country is flat, which makes it quite enjoyable to experience by bicycle if that is your thing. I, on the other hand, was the weirdo using my feet. I prefer feet; they offer a chance to really, take-in the scenery.

Wild ponies on my walk through the National Park Zuid-Kennemerland

Arriving at the park, I could have picked between two, 4km walks, but I decided to on the 9km walk. It was the right choice. My wandering began by passing some wild ponies grazing next to sand dunes and continued through countryside filled with cows lounging in lakes. My mammoth experiment in the Netherlands’ countryside finished with a coffee and juice overlooking a North Sea beach. I don’t think I could have asked for a more peaceful and scenic day, with a easy bus-ride back home.

Can you imagine walking by here? Visit Haarlem then!

Of course if walking 9km in the country-side is not your thing, then the beauty of this country is, reason eight: it is small and everything is within a short train or bus-ride. Trains run on time, bus drivers will drop you at stops that are not their stops and every stop is documented; on the buses and trains they tell you and show you on a screen which stop you are on.

So, for my third day in Haarlem I decided to use this beautifully-easy transportation to go on a day trip to of all places: Hoorn (reason nine) and the place to go if wilderness is not your thing. During the 17th century this was one of the richest of the Dutch seaports. Today, it remains as attractive to the 21st century sailor, which was evident as I disembarked the train, wandered through the shop-strewn town to the port to watch the masts of hundreds of sailboats delivering themselves from the open ocean. After tiring of watching these beautiful boats navigate the harbour, I traced my steps back through the mansions that litter Grote Oost street and sell antiques or are filled with art galleries. These led me to the centre, or Rode Steen “red zone” which holds the statue of Jan Pieterszoon Coen who was the founder of the Dutch East Indies Empire. Even better is on Thursdays, the centre holds a cheese market. Unfortunately, it was a Tuesday, but I could still enjoy a coffee while watching everyone wander-by with their purchases from the shops that lead the way back to the train station.

Back to the centre of Haarlem!

By 7 p.m. I was back in Haarlem and enjoying reason ten for visiting this country in the summer: the sun was still shining (it doesn’t set till almost 9 p.m. in the summer!) I could enjoy lounging in the centre of the city at one of the many restaurants on the square, watch life go by and prepare myself for the next day.

And the next Rock Fever Column: how to handle being sick while abroad! Stay tuned for next week and being sick in The Hague (and making the most of it)!

The Bath Abbey

“Can you make some room,” yelled a man from the platform.

“Can we get through? We have seats!” screamed a frazzled traveler trying to bypass the compartment.

Another passenger surrendered and sat in the bathroom. I found a foot of empty space next to the train’s door. With my bag resting on my two feet I prayed we would be moving soon.

Rush hour on London’s commuter trains. I had, clearly, not thought-through my travel plans to Bath, England. It  was only supposed to take only an hour and a half. It – trip number nine out of ten from London for less than $100 – felt like five hours as a I grappled for an inch of space.

Where else have I been for less than $100 for my Rock Fever Column for The Royal Gazette? Good question. It started with a ticket for $65 (one-way) from Bermuda to London with my frequent flier miles. Make sure you get them! Next I hit Stockholm and Sigtuna in Sweden; Sachsenhausen and Berlin in Germany; Hampstead, Dover and Brighton in England.

Now, with number nine, it was time to come clean. I was heading to Bath. Silly me decided to try and go at 7 p.m. on a Friday night.

After extricating myself from the mass of bodies I found myself stranded on the streets of Bath. Luckily it is not a large town and I managed to find my Y.M.C.A. hostel after negotiating very drunk college students in about 20 minutes. The Y.M.C.A. might be easy to find, but it’s not exactly inviting so I plunked down my bag and hit the town.

Roman Baths

Some 2,000 years ago the Romans also arrived here. Rather than the Y.M.C.A.’s pathetic shower they decided to channel Bath’s hot sulfurous waters into elaborate pools. These really took-off in the 18th Century when England’s ladies and gents began coming here for the waters and enjoying the season in terraced houses! These iconic homes that line Bath’s streets were featured in the musings of Jane Austen who lived here briefly in the 1800’s. And of course what else do you do with really old, beautiful buildings? UNESCO makes them a World Heritage Site!

I believe the city more than earned the right; even at night. As I walked through the varied lanes and roads of Bath, the yellow street lights illuminated a city haunted by visions of 18 and 19th Century England from Austen’s books. This includes the 18th Century, Pulteney Bridge which crosses the River Avon and is filled with shops. If you have ever been to Florence and witnessed the Ponte Vecchio, then you’ve seen the inspiration for this gorgeous bridge. Walking along the river’s edge and listening to the falling water was soothing, to say the least, after my horrendous train ride.

Ahhh Bath, I think I could get used to you.

With my train stress washed down the river, it was time to relegate myself to my bed for a full-on assault the next morning. First I would have to try my hand at the breakfast. Ugh. the crumbs of bread and poor attempt at an English Breakfast ensured that next time I go to Bath I will save my pennies for one of the quaint Bed and Breakfasts I continually walked-by.

Fully famished, I decided I would have to visit, well where else? The Roman Baths! This complex built by….the Romans (see you’re getting this) are essentially as they left them. In 75 A.D. they channeled the waters into this complex that rivals the baths in rome (and I should know I have been there). Visitors, unfortunately, are no longer allowed to bath in the waters that are 116 degrees Fahrenheit. At least the modern complex has built a terrace for visitors to watch more than 240,000 gallons pump through each day before descending into the underground chambers that offer a historical guide to the baths. With a ticket that cost about £11 I was able to walk around wishing I could jump in, but it also offered me an entrance to the Fashion Museum. Well I mean after you bath you need to dress, right?

Exiting the baths (not Bath, you get it, right?) I was bombarded by the Bath Abbey. This cannot be missed. I

More Abbey

don’t mean go inside, though you should. I mean it is the centre of the town. Established in the 8th Century, the first English King, Edgar in 973 was crowned here. Through the years it has been built and then fallen until Elizabeth I ordered it restored. The Abbey has been the same ever since her meddling.

Around the Abbey and the Roman Baths is a mix of modern shops in old buildings. I thoroughly enjoyed getting lost with in the Upper Borough Walls, Union Streets and Barton Street among others filled with shops and little cafes opening onto the side walks. Bath is, among other things, a town built for luxury! Eat your fill in the famous restaurants that include English Chef Jamie Oliver’s Italian restaurant and then, if you’ve got it, bath in the actual complex for it – the Thermae Bath Spa. It will cost you though! £24 for two hours!

I did not have the cash for this luxury so I enjoyed a free walk up to the Circus. No, not Barnum and Bailey’s. Bath’s Circus is  comprised of three semicircular terraces of Regency houses surround a circular park. It was designed by architect John Wood the Elder, who built much of 18th century Bath. I tried to get my landscape photo and decided to use the rest of my Roman Baths’ ticket and head for some fashion.

Not much to note here. A very small museum, Bath’s Fashion Museum main focus is, of course, a whole spread on Princess Diana’s fashion through the years. At least I did not waste the rest of my £11 ticket!

Before I could wish Bath good-bye, there was one more museum I needed to visit. Jane Austen’s of course.

The Royal Crescent in Bath

This illustrative author was a resident in Bath between 1801 and 1806 and the city features heavily in Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. She ended-up hating Bath when her, her mom and sister fell on hard times here. Perhaps that is why the city devoted the sad little home on Gay Street as a museum to the artist. My guidebook had warned me, but I couldn’t miss one of my favourite writer’s museum! It was dull.

Oh well, I was almost done with my trip to Bath. I wandered through some of the green and stunning parks including the Royal Victoria Park in front of the Royal Crescent and meandered back on the train. Luckily Friday’s rush hour was over and I could comfortably ride back to England’s capital fully refreshed.

Refreshed and ready for next week’s column: finding things to do in London for under $100. It can be done! I promise.

And of course visit www.robynswanderings.com for more all of your daily travel tips!

It's chocolate time!

I’ve tried to stay away. I’ve walked by them in the pharmacies. I’ve seen them in store shops. But on Wednesday when I was doing my grocery shopping I couldn’t resist.

I couldn’t resist, yet I had to justify. I stood there in Lindo’s (Bermuda’s friendliest grocery store) and debated. How can I justify my need for an Advent Calendar?

Well for one and really should be the only reason: CHOCOLATE! And not just one chocolate or a box that you might sit and eat in one go this thing doles-out chocolates every day! Bring on the extra pounds I don’t care!

Just as the Advent Calendar hits your sweet tooth it also gives me a reason for being! Well a reason coupled with my coffee in the morning to be on a caffeine high! So reason two? Do I have to spell it out? A nice side-dish for your coffee.

Three, well of course it makes me feel like a kid again. I know, awww…..! I remember every morning we would scamper to the kitchen to find out what the chocolate was that day and scarf it down before the eggs were ready.

But the problem was there are three of us in my family and there was only ONE Advent Calendar. “Is it my turn yet mom?” No Robyn you only went yesterday.”

That’s the beauty of being an adult and reason four for getting to the pharmacy for one! I get to buy the Advent Calendar so I get the chocolates! Ha. Take that. Selfish? Ok maybe. So maybe I’ll share a couple.

Advent this and Advent that. Did you know that Advent stands for Coming in Latin? I bet you didn’t, but that’s what reason number five is for purchasing this chocolate maze. It made me find out what it stood for.

The coming of what? Well six is of course you have to stuff your face with chocolate. At least Christians have something to celebrate and that’s the nativity of Jesus.

Where did this all start? Apparently it all started with the German Lutherans! Yep here’s number seven for you. A history lesson (with a side of chocolate). At the beginning of the 19th Century the German Lutherans would physically count until December 24th. That include making chalk markings on the walls.

And eight is did you know when the first Advent Calendar was made? I bet you didn’t. I bet you’re glad I’m

A chocolate ear santa?

going to tell you.

Well the first Advent Calendar was handmade in 1851! The first printed Advent Calendar was made in Hamburg in 1902!

And nine is it gives you a way to see how other countries celebrate the holidays. Did you know, for example, that in Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Iceland and Finland there is also a tradition of having a Julekalender. It’s a TV show featuring a trio of comedic actors that has 24 episodes; one for each day until Christmas Eve.

Who knew? And for those of you, and me, who are not religious or may not be Christian what more could you ask for? What about bigger chocolates? So maybe the secular Advent Calendars are finally a way for everyone to enjoy something at the same time each year that doesn’t scream RELIGION!

Now go out and buy!

Brighton's Lanes

Perhaps it was the salty air of Dover’s Cliffs. Maybe it was the email from a friend encouraging me to experience it. Was it the notorious name?

Brighton. I had heard the name so many times and even though it is only about 50 miles or 80 km from London, I had never been to this seaside town. As a Bermudian I never quite understood the point. I’m afraid a beach will never impress. Ok, maybe not never. I was impressed by Sri Lanka’s….but that’s another story.

Back in Britain, my emailing friend assured me Brighton was more than beach. I decided it was time. It was time to add its infamous name to my list of trips under $100 from London. Yes, if you have been following the Rock Fever Column I write for The Royal Gazette for the last few weeks I have been to Stockholm and Sigtuna in Sweden; Sachsenhausen and Berlin in Germany; Hampstead and Dover in England. For photos of these trips and Bright visit my photos page.

I was further encouraged to jump to Brighton because the train-trip was less than an hour from London Bridge Tube Station and it cost less than £10! Just a tad cheaper than the £50,000 the iconic Brighton Royal Pavilion sold for in 1850. The creation of George IV, the Royal Pavilion was originally a farmhouse before he decided to reinvent it. Now the Pavilion is a draw for crowds visiting this seaside town. Well, at least, it was for me!

However, I’ve never been a map reader. Yes, I admit. I am one of those people that has to literally stand in a map before orienting myself. Luckily for directionally challenged people like myself, Brighton has Visitor Information Centres dotted around the city. I found the closest one to the train station hiding in a Toy and Model museum. I gave the models a miss and followed the man’s directions.

They sent me meandering through streets lined with multi-coloured stores, organic cafes and leather markets, that might have looked more comfortable on Middle Road, Bermuda rather than North Laine, Brighton.

Eventually, I found it! Well, the Pavilion Gardens first and then the Royal Pavilion.

It was a witches’ castle. What am I talking about? You know you’ve made them. Every kid in Bermuda has. You’ve held the wet sand in your hands and made drip castles.

Brighton's Royal Pavilion

What you were making has in fact been sitting on Brighton’s seaside since the1800’s: The Royal Pavilion. And for £9.50 you can experience one of the most ridiculously over-the-top, formerly private, homes in Britain. Originally a farmhouse when George IV the Prince of Wales, rented it in the 1780‘s, it grew along with his lifestyle of drinking, womanising and gambling and Brighton’s! A former fishing town, Brighton also started to transform into a seaside retreat for the rich and famous.

When George was sworn-in as Prince Regent in 1811 because his father George III was incapable of acting as the monarch, the villa grew. John Nash stepped-in. He introduced minarets and domes to the exterior while lathering the interior with enormous dragons and seashell-encrusted ceilings in the red-walled Music Room. No expense was spared, which is all I could think of as I walked through with my complimentary audio guide.

Queen Victoria ended-up inheriting the Palace, but even with all of its grandeur it could barely fit her growing family. Plus she was all about austerity. The opulent palace didn’t quite fit with her vibe so she decided to sell it.
The City of Brighton was quite happy to purchase the former Palace to ensure somewhere for tourists to visit. Hey, I bought a ticket.

Thoroughly impressed by George IV’s ability to spend money, I decided it was time to learn a little more about Brighton in the last couple of years. Sitting right next to the former Palace is the Brighton Museum. Convenient.

Random. Free. Both are reasons to visit this museum that offers some insight to the more-recent history of Brighton. The museum documents the growth of this capital of clubbing in Britain as well as its trend-setters. Of course there is the Fashion and Style section with random outfits provided by everyone from the gothic icons to the grunge mixed with Egyptian antiques. I did say random. Feeling thoroughly acquainted with the history of Brighton I figured it was time to head to the seaside.

Of course the seaside is what Brighton is about! I mean that’s why the rich and powerful people started coming here. The seaside was more than just a beach. It was a health clinic. Yes, a health resort of sorts. In the early 1800‘s Dr. Richard Russell created these ‘dippings’ which included a total immersion into the sea water to cure-all. I can imagine he was paid a pretty penny for these! Heck I can do that. Ok no I can’t. I’m Bermudian. I wasn’t going anywhere near the water.

Brighton's Pier

So luckily for me, the Brighton Pier is still standing and could keep me well above the frigid waters below.

The Pier is the epitome of traditional British seaside. Painted white, filled with an amusement park, rows of junk food and, of course, a candy store, the Pier is somewhere to sit and enjoy the views if you’re lucky and find a nice day. Other than that? It’s not much and the day was too cold for me! I hit the end and headed back to the interior to find a coffee and somewhere warm.

Luckily I could take my pick in the narrow streets in the area called The Lanes i.e.old, bricked buildings creating human-size mazes. Cute stores filled with antiques and clothes called my name. I ignored them and found a tiny coffee place to enjoy watching the fellow lost souls.

The light was fading. It was time. Time to finish my enjoyment of the beachside retreat and head back to London. Which is why Brighton is a great trip from Britain’s capital. It’s an afternoon, it’s a weekend, it can be both. I know, I know, there are supposed to be great clubs in Brighton. I didn’t have the energy. I will have to see them next time.

That’s because I still have to find a few more trips from London that cost under $100! And I did it. Perhaps it was time to come clean. To Bath it is next week and, of course, check back here tomorrow for more suggestions for your own trips!

Reminders of the Vietnam War

It started with peace. And no it’s not Memorial Day. Don’t confuse the two.

Memorial Day (the fourth Monday in May) honors American service members who died in service to their country or as a result of injuries incurred during battle.

Veterans Day pays tribute to all veterans–living or dead–but especially gives thanks to living veterans who served their countries honorably during war or peacetime.

And Veterans Day began in peace. Yes, Thursday might be a day to remember those who valiantly went to war, but the day was founded on peace almost 100 years ago.

On November 11, 1918 at 11 a.m. a temporary stop in hostilities was declared between the Allied Nations and Germany in WWI or the Great War. Depending who you speak to I guess.

A year later? President Woodrow Wilson declared a day of remembrance for all those who had served in the war.

He said: “To us in America, the reflections of Armistice Day will be filled with lots of pride in the heroism of those who died in the country’s service and with gratitude for the victory, both because of the thing from which it has freed us and because of the opportunity it has given America to show her sympathy with peace and justice in the councils of the nations.”

Just a few years later, in 1938, the day became a legal holiday; “a day to be dedicated to the cause of world peace and to be thereafter celebrated and known as ‘Armistice Day’.”

And on June 1, 1954, the word “Armistice” was replaced with Veterans. Not surprising after the world had suffered a second World War, the Korean War and was about to enter the Vietnam War.

See this great video on the history of Veterans Day.

So what do we do now for Veterans Day? I have to have a lament here. Without people willing to sacrifice for a good cause we would not have saved those being persecuted in Europe during WWI or II.

But recent Wars i.e. Iraq and Afghanistan, feel futile. There were no weapons of mass destruction and sovereignty of these countries was destroyed. And the wars are still going on.

One might argue that Saddam Hussein was a tyrant and deserved to be kicked-out. I can’t argue about that, but why do it now? North Korea is slowly destroying its people and yet I did not see former President Bush talking about taking them out.

It’s sad and something to think about on Thursday. It’s something I faced quite regularly when I visited Vietnam last year. War’s lingering problems. The immediate fighting might end, but the atrocities do not go away. See the photo here:

The Vietnam War continues to be remembered here with birth defects in children thanks to the Agent Orange used by the Americans. Unfortunately these poor children, men and women are not remembered with a day.

Don’t get me wrong. What those of the armed services do takes guts and commitment that I do not have. All I hope to do is accept the fact that with war comes civilians caught in the middle. They don’t get a day.

But at least they remember the veterans I suppose. The United States, Bermuda, Britain, France, Australia and Canada all commemorate the veterans of World Wars I and II on or near November 11th with parades, flags and a day off work.

In the United States there is even an official wreath-laying ceremony is held each Veterans Day at the Tomb of the Unknowns in Arlington National Cemetery.

And apparently this year, American National Parks will also be free on Thursday. Yes around the country there will be free entrance to these parks. Check out these listings to find the closest park for your visit.

In Bermuda? We’ll be off on Thursday and there will be a parade along our main street- Front Street. There will also be a second parade on November 14 in St. George’s that will be attended by Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Gloucester, and Lt. Col. Brian Gonsalves of the Bermuda Regiment.

Poppy appeals and a memorial to the women and men who served in the Armed Services during WWI and WWII will also carry-on for remembrance. See The Royal Gazette’s Article on this.

So whatever you do…be in Bermuda or not, remember those who have bravely entered the armed forces and are trying their best AND those civilians who are still suffering from the ravages of war. They need a day.

U-Bahn

“All you have to do Robyn, is take the U to the S to the Bus.”

“Oh right. Ok. Do you think Berlin could have anymore letters I could memorize?”

“Ha. Don’t worry it gets easy once you try it.”

I didn’t believe them. I had just landed in Berlin and I was trying to figure-out how to wander from my Eco-lodge in the Grunewald Park that comes complete with wild pigs, to the centre of Berlin.

Even though I had only given myself three days in Berlin, I decided to try and redeem my flights with a stay in a solar-powered lodge. Bring on the environment! Just please leave behind the cold showers. No wonder this place closes in the winter. Only October and already I couldn’t get any hot water in the morning.

Nothing like an icicle shower to open my eyes to the alphabet soup that is Berlin’s transportation system. I don’t think I’ve been to a place that has quite so many names for a similar thing.

So what have we got in our Berlin soup?

There is the S-Bahn. What is it? It’s the Suburban metro railways and the S actually stands for ’Stadtschnellbahn’ (meaning “urban rapid railway”) and it was introduced to Berlin in 1930. These are actually trains and are mostly above ground.

They criss cross (and make you wanna jump) around Berlin and into the surrounding state Brandenburg. It

U-Bahn in Berlin

also consists of 15 lines and is integrated with the next letter combo – the U-Bahn.

Got it?

So where U Bahn? Well you’ll have been negotiating 173 stations across nine lines and 147 kilometres of track on the U-Bahn in Berlin. They travel 132 million km (83 million mi), carrying 400 million passengers every year.

But it was not always so unified. Like the city it helps commute, the U-Bahn was severed during the East vs. West fight until 1989. Back together, the U-Bahn is now the most extensive underground system in Germany.

Even better? For the environmentalists out there in 2006 it was calculated that the use of the U-Bahn amounted to the equivalent of 122.2 million km (76 million mi) of car journeys!

What else does Berlin have? Buses. Night and Day. Just make sure you look for the N for the evening or you might get lost.

These are so convenient and all the drivers spoke some English when I got on. That made it a lot easier to buy my tickets for the day.

Well for the day, for a short trip, a week, a single trip, etc…take your pick! And you can. That’s the beauty of Alphabet soup. One ticket will take you on all of it.

All you have to worry about is making sure that you have the right zones. Yep.

Adding to the soup are the zones. A to B to C. Luckily most things to see in Berlin only require learning about A and B. C? That’s for the Schonefeld airport and Oranienburg where you can visit Sachsenhausen concentration camp.

Finally?! Trams. I never took one and I don’t think most tourists would, but if you do your ticket will still work. I love Berlin.

M…..is the last letter you need to learn in Berlin. Map – make sure you pick-up a free map from the various areas in Berlin! I had to pick-up two. It’s helpful with tips on how to get around and a well-used map.

Just make sure you go! Berlin is ridiculously interesting and filled with everything you could want. And even as directionally-challenged as I can be I figured it out!

"Work will Set you Free": the ominous statement on the main gate to Sachsenhausen

I had one day. One day for what? To get back to London from Stockholm (my previous trip that was under $100 a day. You know? Ten trips from London for under $100. My latest travel attempt) and prepare for my next cheap trip.

It required some laundry, some emails, and of course printing out my boarding passes before the airport – the trade-off for traveling on budget airline EasyJet. That proved more difficult in London than I figured. Now that everyone has wifi no one needs computer labs. The fear of missing my flight grew as people I asked in coffee shops and stores looked at me as if I had two heads.

“Do you know where I can find a internet cafe?”

“Huh? Um…well there might be one. Turn left at…..”

I went on my goose- chase and an hour later I found my hole-in-the-wall, paid 80p and exited with two boarding passes for……BERLIN! It’s time for another Rock Fever Column for Monday!

Clothes were thrown into another carry-on. This time I made sure that I packed even less than I had for Stockholm. I didn’t want another run-in with a troubled, low-cost carrier worker (remember Ryanair and my clothes layering? visit here for the story if you missed it.)

A train from London Bridge to Gatwick took only half an hour and cost a lot less than the Gatwick express. Try £16 return vs.  £16 one- way!

I was ready for Berlin. Too bad EasyJet wasn’t. For a delay of three hours I received  £3 to spend on whatever I wanted. How generous.

I had a good book so I wasn’t worried about killing time, but on the other end of the trip, i.e. Berlin it made it difficult. Not because there was no transport. Nope. Berlin has a great metro which stops around midnight, but then night buses kick-in to pick-up the slack.

Unfortunately as I looked at the night bus schedule the directions given by my Eco-friendly hostel did not seem to translate. Luckily I had my cell phone.

We decided I should find a taxi.

I’m glad I did. He was very friendly and immediately I realized Germans were going to be more approachable than the Swedes (I’m sorry Sweden. You were not always the most welcoming). The entrance to my hostel was hidden down a 100 foot path through the woods with no lights. Horror film came to mind and I was glad I was not walking down it on my own.

I had decided for my Berlin trip I would try and save the environment. Well or at least pay-back the carbon footprint of some of these flights. I found an Eco-friendly youth hostel -Jetpak – located in one of the beautiful parks of Berlin. Doesn’t really jive with your view on Berlin does it? I mean the park thing.

It should. I had never seen such a green city. My hostel was located in the Grunewald which is 32 square kilometres of mixed forest and lakes, even a beach, in the city! I know crazy. Even crazier? They still have wild pigs running around this forest!

After a solar powered shower and heated water for my coffee, I decided to hike back along the wooded path to

Wandering near the Eco-Friendly Hostel

find my bus. I felt better already about the airline fumes.

No exact change needed on the buses and for about €4 I could travel on all the public transportation I wanted too for that day. Berlin was getting better and better.

My flight to Berlin was $40 one-way. My hostel was €20 a night. Transportation €4. I was on my $100 budget.

Now for entertainment. Berlin is a city piled high with history. With every corner turn you peel away another layer. I was in heaven. Berlin is also beautiful….in segments. Thanks to Hitler and his successors – the Russians – buildings were destroyed at various times and rebuilt with very different aesthetics. This makes Berlin an interesting city to explore.

The most disturbing architecture of the regimes?

A former concentration camp – Sachsenhausen – on the outskirts of the city. This was a prototype prison that Nazi’s use as an example for every other they would build, it was also used by the Soviets when they took over parts of Berlin. It was where I felt I needed to begin my travels through Berlin. With New Berlin Tour – a company that offers affordable and even free tours of various European cities – I had a PhD student as a guide with nine other people for €14. A 40 minute metro ride delivered us to this triangular-shaped, work camp turned concentration camp and its ominous gates with the “Work will set you free” slogan.

At one point 60,000 workers were trapped by 200 soldiers here with various methods including a watchtower that could overlook the entire triangular layout and a death strip where prisoners were shot – no questions asked- if they tried to leave. Besides physical constraints, the SS Guards inflicted psychological constraints too. Prisoners were sectioned into various groups – homosexuals, political prisoners, jews, etc… and the guards would treat the different groups better or worse depending on their status.

By the end of the war as the Soviets moved closer to Berlin and the Nazis became desperate, Sachsenhausen’s ovens and death marches away from it, turned into systematic killing machines of Soviet POWs and Jewish Prisoners.

Entrance to Sachsenhausen

The grounds are now bleak and filled with very few structures to actually see since much was destroyed during de-nazification. There are, now, two reconstructions of the sparse prison blocks that would be filled to overflowing and a specialized prison where cells kept high-interest internees – i.e. the man who tried to kill Hitler – in solitary confinement.

A depressing and conflicted site. The difficult history is further depicted across from the “Work will set you free” Gate. The former SS Guards’ training site now houses the area’s Police Academy. But therein lies the debate and controversy that continues in Berlin and Germany as a whole. What to do with Nazi relics? These are useful buildings that could be reused and should be reused. But what about what they stood for before?

It was a thoroughly sobering afternoon that silenced any complaints I had about the cold in the air. It was time to return to the centre of Berlin.

Stay tuned for next week when I travel in the Centre of Berlin and visit here for daily wanderings by Robyn!